Tolaga Bay / Uawa and Tokomaru Bay are two communities worth giving time to on SH35, rather than treating them as successive photo stops. Uawa is the first substantial coastal stop north of Gisborne, with a wharf, town services and the Cooks Cove outing nearby. Tokomaru lies farther north along a broad bay, with waterfront stays and reminders of its former port and industrial life.
You can visit Uawa from Gisborne for the day. Staying overnight in Tolaga or Tokomaru makes more sense if you want a longer walk, a relaxed meal or a start on the northern coast the following morning. This guide covers that first coastal stage within the wider Tairāwhiti region.
Quick take
Allow around an hour from Gisborne to Tolaga Bay, then another 45–60 minutes towards Tokomaru before works and stops. Choose one main outing for a return day trip. Cooks Cove takes about 2½ hours when open; the full historic wharf is not currently an unrestricted walking route. For a slower northbound trip, spend a night in Tokomaru rather than returning to Gisborne simply to retrace the road.
Uawa: town, coast and local context
Uawa’s histories go well beyond Cook’s 1769 visit. Te Aitanga-a-Hauiti’s connection to the area is reflected in interpretation at Cooks Cove, developed in partnership with DOC. Read that material rather than treating the place as only an episode in an explorer’s voyage. Private land, marae and cultural sites have their own access arrangements.
The township and wharf area are separate parts of the visit. Food and accommodation in town can fit around the walk, but allow time to drive and park at the southern end. A modest town stop followed by the shore is a perfectly good outing if the walk is closed or too much for the group.
Tolaga Bay Wharf: follow the barrier
The wharf gives a clear sense of how communities once depended on coastal shipping. Its long concrete structure projects into an exposed bay, which is part of both its appeal and its maintenance challenge. The photograph is historical; it does not show today’s permitted walking distance.
the council’s wharf condition report documents deterioration and closure beyond the halfway point. Treat the current barrier as the limit, even if you see someone else beyond it. Do not plan a walk to the end, jump from the structure or make the closed section a fishing destination. If weather or a further restriction makes the wharf unsuitable, view it from the shore and give town or the beach-side public areas more time.
Cooks Cove / Opoutama: give it a proper half-day
DOC’s Cooks Cove Walkway information is the primary source for access, alerts and the route. It lists 5.8 km return and about 2½ hours, with climbing across farmland and a descent towards the cove. This is a different commitment from the wharf stop and needs shoes with grip, drinking water and suitable weather.
The entrance is off Wharf Road, with a small car park and a larger beach parking area farther along. DOC lists toilets near the wharf and cove but no drinking water on the walk. Stay on the route and away from steep bluffs. The walk crosses land by permission, closes annually for lambing from 1 August until Labour Weekend, and does not allow dogs. Check live DOC alerts as well as the seasonal dates before setting out.
If children are tired or the ground is muddy, choose a shorter town-and-shore day. Do not improvise a cliff shortcut or treat the cove as a guaranteed swimming stop. A walk can be worthwhile for the landscape and interpretation without entering the water.
Tokomaru Bay: more than a lunch stop
Tokomaru’s long shore and spread-out settlement feel different from the compact plan visitors sometimes imagine from a road map. Allow time for the drive along the bay as well as SH35 itself. A meal at Te Puka Tavern or a stop at Café 35 can give the visit a useful centre without needing a long list of attractions.
The old wharf and freezing-works area at Waima help explain the bay’s shipping and industrial history. Look from lawful public areas and respect barriers. Old structures can be unstable, and our 2009 photograph is not evidence that a wharf is open today. Do not enter buildings or cross private land for a better photograph.
A night here also changes the trip practically. You can arrive before dinner, spend time beside the bay and leave for Ruatoria the next morning without repeating the whole Gisborne drive. Give the accommodation your expected arrival time, and confirm food options before assuming a late kitchen will be open.
Where to stay and eat
Tolaga Bay TOP 10 Holiday Park suits campers and families wanting a base near the wharf area. Its sites, cabins and self-contained units offer different levels of privacy and cooking facilities. Compare the exact category, especially if your family needs a bathroom or a proper cooking setup. A powered site uses shared facilities rather than giving you a private cabin kitchen.
Tolaga Bay Inn is a town-based heritage option listed by New Zealand Māori Tourism, with upstairs accommodation and café/bar facilities. Confirm room access, bathrooms and current meal service directly. It is a different style of stay from a modern self-contained motel; it may suit travellers who value being in town more than having a full apartment.
Te Puka Tavern accommodation in Tokomaru advertises modern units for up to five with a private balcony. Ask about the actual beds and cooking equipment before choosing it for a self-catering family. The tavern also lists powered parking for self-contained campervans; book and confirm the facilities rather than treating the waterfront as unrestricted overnight parking.
Café 35 is a specific Tokomaru food stop, including its well-known pāua pies when available. Do not plan a late arrival around a particular menu item or opening time without checking. Bring a backup picnic for a day with a long walk and several rural stops. Council council summer-camping rules and permits are separate from commercial holiday-park bookings and require their own permissions.
A day trip or a slower coast stage?
One day from Gisborne: choose Uawa
Morning — drive to Uawa. Allow about an hour before roadworks. If Cooks Cove is open and suits the group, make it the main outing and take water and food. Otherwise, begin with the town and signed open shore/wharf area.
Afternoon — lunch and a measured return. Keep a relaxed meal and a short coastal stop before returning to Gisborne. Tokomaru adds roughly another 45–60 minutes north each way; leave it for another day if the walk has already filled the morning.
Two days travelling north
Day 1 — Uawa to Tokomaru. Overnight: Tokomaru Bay. Start early enough for the main Uawa outing, then continue with a generous driving margin. Check in before the agreed arrival time and have dinner locally when service is confirmed.
Day 2 — the bay and onward travel. Finish: Ruatoria or Wharekahika / Hicks Bay. Take a little time beside Tokomaru Bay, then head north. Ruatoria is roughly 45–60 minutes away before works; continuing to the far northern coast needs additional driving and a booked base. A Hikurangi tour must be scheduled in advance, not added as a quick drive up the maunga.
Road and beach advice
Check NZTA Journey Planner and SH35 recovery information before setting off, with Gisborne District Council road information for side roads. Temporary controls and weather disruption can change a tidy-looking itinerary. Keep daylight for unfamiliar stretches, fuel and supplies in reserve, and maps downloaded before losing coverage.
For any swimming, use council swimming-water advice and Safeswim rather than assuming a small bay is sheltered or patrolled. Stay away from river mouths, structures and closed areas, and follow local signs. Our beach guide explains the choices closer to Gisborne.
Continue with Ruatoria, Te Araroa and East Cape, return to Gisborne city, or use the inland guide for a change of landscape. The regional hub brings the full route together.